This trip was definitely not for me. Pa had been wanting to come to Charleston for a long time. Yes, there is history, beautiful plantations, and just a lot to see. But that is not why Charleston was high on Pa’s bucket list. With centuries of Lowcountry recipes being passed from family to family, there was a great food history for the area and Pa was here to try it all! Don’t get me wrong. I really enjoyed our trip as you will see.
We arrived late in the afternoon and of course, headed to get some food. This eating experience was more about function (i.e. getting food into Ma’s belly) than it was about experiencing Charleston. Although the food was great, we were just hungry and stopped somewhere near the hotel. After a quick and easy dinner, we settled in and got some rest before we beginning the adventures the next day.
Magnolia Plantation
Magnolia Plantation first on the itinerary. It was built over 300 years ago and is the oldest public gardens in the country. There was a ton for us to do. But our first stop on the plantation was for me. It was the Zoo and Nature Center. There were a lot of cool animals, from chickens and foxes to hogs and horses. A few of them we could get close to and even touch. As you will see, I also tried my hand at photography. Let me know what you think!
We then hopped on a tram that circled the entire property. There were huge oak trees and some swampland with ‘gators. We saw some baby ‘gators up close and some big ones out sunbathing on some pieces of wood in the middle of the swamp. There were tons of birds flying all around. Herons and egrets would swoop down trying to catch some fish for lunch.
After the tram ride, we strolled through the gardens. March was a pretty good time of year for this stroll. Many flowers were in bloom. The azaleas were everywhere. And it felt like they were all in bloom. But probably the most beautiful spot on the property was the white bridge spanning part of the swamp. It was built in 1840, and if you catch it on a calm day, the reflection on the water is just amazing.
Even though the property is beautiful, some of the stories are not. It was an active plantation from the 1600s to the 1800s. But the property does talk about what life was like back then for the enslaved. There is a program on-site to cover African American history on the plantation, and there are several buildings dating back to the 1850s. The program goes from slavery through Civil Rights and discusses how the Gullah people built and maintained the beautiful property over the centuries.
We spent most of the day at Magnolia Plantation and still didn’t see everything. The property was beautiful. There are some very majestic about oak trees that are hundreds of years old. I wonder what stories they would tell if they could?
The Grocery
That night we were off on our first food experience. We headed to a newer restaurant called The Grocery. It is local in every way possible. They use local farmers, fishers, and artisanal creators for the ingredients that make up their small but ever-changing menu. Pa and I were in this one together. They had a whole red snapper – and I mean whole! After our experience in Izola (Slovenia), I was ready to tackle whole fish again, especially… the eyeball. The fish was cooked in a wood-fired pizza oven. I would know. I snuck over a few times to see it being cooked.
The plate hit the table and it looked absolutely amazing. The fish sat up on the plate and was served with potatoes and fennel. Pa and I devoured this thing. Oh my, was it yummy. The oven gave the fish a nice crispy outside. After a while, we both tired out, just picking at the fish, waiting for what was inevitably going to happen. Pa and I locked eyes, and we knew it was time. Ma grabbed the camera because in her words, “This needs to be documented!” We each took an eyeball and…1, 2, 3! We popped it into our mouths. And pretty quickly we regretted out decision. I lasted longer, but we both eventually spit it out. We learned later that you are supposed to suck the eyeball and then spit out. Both of us chomped down. (Oops.) But I am glad we tried, and we learned for next time.
Historic Charleston
After a good night’s sleep, we were back at it again. This day was for touring around historic Charleston. Before lunch, we caught a ride on a horse and carriage to get a tour of the city. They told some amazing stories about the city. From fires to earthquakes to wars, Charleston has a lot of history. Some of the old homes that still stood were absolutely spectacular. It was a fun experience.
Martha Lou’s
The next stop, however, was lunch. We went to another place that was high on Pa’s list: Martha Lou’s Kitchen. We came for the fried chicken and stayed for the wonderful ladies running the show. You can try some other fried items (but why would you?). The sides are prepared special each day. One bite into the chicken and you feel like you have floated off to heaven. I thought we were going to need to get a wheelbarrow just to get Pa back to the car. Martha Lou’s was delish!
Peepaw’s Picture
That afternoon we headed to a park near the water. I needed to run around and burn off some energy. We also needed to get our traditional cannon shot for our travel wall. But there was one surprise that Ma had up her sleeve. Peepaw and Meemaw came to Charleston when they were younger. At this park, there is a stack of cannonballs on display. Many years ago, Peepaw tried to pull the top one off and Meemaw got a picture. So naturally, I ran over and tried to pull the top one off. Ma snapped and picture and as you can see below, they are a spittin’ image of each other.
Fort Sumter
The following day we were off to go visit Fort Sumter. To get there we had to take a boat. Thankfully, for Ma’s sake, it was a pretty large boat, and the waves were fairly calm. It was really fun, at least for me. Pa and I hung out at the back so we could watch the seagulls and other birds swoop down and try to catch some fish that the boat engines were churning up. Then, off in the distance, you could see the battleship, USS Yorktown. Now that was a big ship!
We finally landed onshore and started exploring the fort. It was on its own island. How cool is that? There were giant cannons all over. A few were out, and a few were off being restored. These cannons were huge. I couldn’t imagine what they sounded like when they were fired. I feel like the whole island had to shake with each boom. I had to get a few more cannon shots, none more epic than the one you see below.
After we got back from Fort Sumter, we headed over to the Children’s Museum. Considering this trip was not about me, it was the least Ma and Pa could do ;). There was your traditional grocery store, except this even had check out lanes! But the highlight was the large pirate ship. It had multiple levels and places to hide. We could play out our battles at sea and raise our flag. It was a super cool museum.
Children’s Musuem
That night was Pa’s premier food experience. We had reservations at FIG. FIG has been considered one of the best restaurants in the country for several years. The menu is constantly changing based on the seasons. Needless to say, Pa had a little pep in his step to get to dinner. What an experience it was. We sat down, ordered some cocktails (don’t worry, mine was a mocktail) and then BOOM! The power goes out. What happened after this was pretty impressive. The place didn’t miss a beat. It turned into a candlelight dinner. The food was amazing, the service spectacular, and the ambiance was quite nice with dinner by candlelight. Even without power, it lived up to Pa’s expectation.
Boone Hall Plantation
Finally, it was our last day in Charleston so we decided to see another plantation. We headed to Boone Hall Plantation. The first thing you notice is the drive-in. It is a long straight road covered by dozens of oaks trees that are hundreds of years old. It was stunning. There is a certain serenity when you drive down roads that are covered in trees. Once we arrived, the first place we went to was to take a tractor ride around the property. We learned about a lot of the history and geography of the property.
Later there was a cool Gullah presentation exploring their history and culture. There was both acting and singing. That got my attention. Then we went to look at the site’s African American heritage laid out in the brick slave houses.
Before we headed out, we had to stop by the gardens to snap a few flower pictures. There was plenty to choose from. I even captured a few myself.
Although this was a trip for Pa, I really did enjoy myself. The food was great, just like he said it would be. The plantations were beautiful and full of history. And the fort was, well, a fort, and those are awesome! This was a pretty darn good trip.
